{ "schema_version": "2.0", "page_type": "crochet_pattern_article", "source_id": null, "slug": "puff-stitch-sunflower-granny-square", "title": "Puff Stitch Sunflower Granny Square — Free Crochet Pattern", "meta_description": "Crochet a Puff Stitch Sunflower Granny Square with layered 3-hdc and 4-hdc puff petals plus treble corner leaves. Free 3.94-inch square pattern", "published_at": "2026-07-29", "updated_at": "2026-07-29", "author": "Ruby", "thumbnail_url": "data/images/puff-stitch-sunflower-granny-square-hero.webp", "meta": { "title": "Puff Stitch Sunflower Granny Square — Free Crochet Pattern", "pattern_name": "Puff Stitch Sunflower Granny Square — Free Crochet Pattern", "difficulty": "Intermediate", "time_needed": "2-3 Hours", "rating": 4.8, "made_count": "3.4K", "taxonomy": { "category": "Granny Squares", "skill_level": "Intermediate", "yarn_weight": "DK", "tags": [ "granny square", "sunflower granny square", "puff stitch", "free crochet pattern", "floral granny square", "textured granny square", "blanket square", "magic ring", "treble crochet", "summer crochet", "4-color square", "beginner-friendly puff stitch" ] } }, "cards": [ { "order": 1, "card_type": "hero", "code": "hero", "title": "Puff Stitch Sunflower Granny Square — Free Crochet Pattern", "raw_heading": "", "quantity": 1, "groups": [], "rows": [ { "order": 1, "row_type": "info", "code": "hero-info-1", "label": "Confident Beginner to Intermediate", "value": "If you can work a magic loop and a half double crochet, you can build every puff in this square", "raw_text": "If you can work a magic loop and a half double crochet, you can build every puff in this square", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 2, "row_type": "info", "code": "hero-info-2", "label": "One Evening Square", "value": "About 2-3 hours per square once the puff rhythm clicks — faster by your third one", "raw_text": "About 2-3 hours per square once the puff rhythm clicks — faster by your third one", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 3, "row_type": "info", "code": "hero-info-3", "label": "Sunshine in Yarn", "value": "A four-color floral square that turns blankets, cushions and totes into a field of sunflowers", "raw_text": "A four-color floral square that turns blankets, cushions and totes into a field of sunflowers", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null } ] }, { "order": 2, "card_type": "about", "code": "about", "title": "About", "raw_heading": "", "quantity": 1, "groups": [], "rows": [ { "order": 1, "row_type": "info", "code": "about-info-1", "label": "", "value": "This pattern turns four rounds of puff stitches and one round of treble leaves into a proper little sunflower, framed inside a tidy 3.94-inch granny square. It starts life as a magic loop with 15 dc packed inside, then blooms outward through two separate petal layers before the corners open up into big leafy fans. It is made for crocheters who love blanket squares but are tired of plain granny clusters — and for anyone who wants a floral motif that reads clearly as a sunflower from across the room", "raw_text": "This pattern turns four rounds of puff stitches and one round of treble leaves into a proper little sunflower, framed inside a tidy 3.94-inch granny square. It starts life as a magic loop with 15 dc packed inside, then blooms outward through two separate petal layers before the corners open up into big leafy fans. It is made for crocheters who love blanket squares but are tired of plain granny clusters — and for anyone who wants a floral motif that reads clearly as a sunflower from across the room", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 2, "row_type": "info", "code": "about-info-2", "label": "", "value": "The technique list is short but meaningful: a magic loop, standing chains that count as your first stitch, a 3-hdc-puff for Round 2, a 4-hdc-puff for Round 4, chain spaces between every puff, and 6 treble crochets split by 2 chains to shape the corner leaves. Nothing here is fussy, but the puffs do ask for even tension and a confident yarn-over-pull-through. Expect roughly 2 to 3 hours for your first square, and closer to 90 minutes once your hands learn the puff rhythm", "raw_text": "The technique list is short but meaningful: a magic loop, standing chains that count as your first stitch, a 3-hdc-puff for Round 2, a 4-hdc-puff for Round 4, chain spaces between every puff, and 6 treble crochets split by 2 chains to shape the corner leaves. Nothing here is fussy, but the puffs do ask for even tension and a confident yarn-over-pull-through. Expect roughly 2 to 3 hours for your first square, and closer to 90 minutes once your hands learn the puff rhythm", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 3, "row_type": "info", "code": "about-info-3", "label": "", "value": "Finished, the square measures about 3.94 inches by 3.94 inches with a 3.00mm hook — small enough to be portable, large enough that the sunflower center reads instantly. The layered petals sit proud of the fabric with a squishy, almost quilted texture, and the treble leaves push out at each corner so the square blocks into a crisp shape. Stitch a dozen for a bright throw, back a single one with felt for a coaster, or gift a set of four as a housewarming bundle that looks far more complicated than it is", "raw_text": "Finished, the square measures about 3.94 inches by 3.94 inches with a 3.00mm hook — small enough to be portable, large enough that the sunflower center reads instantly. The layered petals sit proud of the fabric with a squishy, almost quilted texture, and the treble leaves push out at each corner so the square blocks into a crisp shape. Stitch a dozen for a bright throw, back a single one with felt for a coaster, or gift a set of four as a housewarming bundle that looks far more complicated than it is", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null } ] }, { "order": 3, "card_type": "why_love", "code": "why-love", "title": "Why You'll Love This Pattern", "raw_heading": "", "quantity": 1, "groups": [], "rows": [ { "order": 1, "row_type": "info", "code": "why-love-1", "label": "", "value": "I genuinely could not stop making these. What hooked me was Round 4 — that moment when you swap the 3-hdc-puff for a 4-hdc-puff and the outer petals suddenly stand taller than the inner ones, exactly the way petals grow on a real sunflower. It is such a small change on paper, and such a big change in the finished square. I also love that the chain spaces between the puffs are doing real work here rather than just filling gaps; they give each petal room to lift and separate, so the flower never turns into one dense blob of texture. The 15 dc in the magic loop are quietly clever too — that count divides evenly into the puff repeats, so nothing has to be fudged or squeezed at the join. And then the corner leaves arrive: 6 trebles split by 2 chains, and just like that a round flower becomes a square. Watching a circle turn into a square in a single round is one of my favorite things in crochet, and this one does it beautifully. Fastening off between rounds also means you can change colors without a single carried strand", "raw_text": "I genuinely could not stop making these. What hooked me was Round 4 — that moment when you swap the 3-hdc-puff for a 4-hdc-puff and the outer petals suddenly stand taller than the inner ones, exactly the way petals grow on a real sunflower. It is such a small change on paper, and such a big change in the finished square. I also love that the chain spaces between the puffs are doing real work here rather than just filling gaps; they give each petal room to lift and separate, so the flower never turns into one dense blob of texture. The 15 dc in the magic loop are quietly clever too — that count divides evenly into the puff repeats, so nothing has to be fudged or squeezed at the join. And then the corner leaves arrive: 6 trebles split by 2 chains, and just like that a round flower becomes a square. Watching a circle turn into a square in a single round is one of my favorite things in crochet, and this one does it beautifully. Fastening off between rounds also means you can change colors without a single carried strand", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null } ] }, { "order": 4, "card_type": "switch_things_up", "code": "switch-things-up", "title": "Switch Things Up", "raw_heading": "", "quantity": 1, "groups": [], "rows": [ { "order": 1, "row_type": "info", "code": "switch-1", "label": "", "value": "The obvious version is classic sunflower: a chocolate-brown magic loop center, golden-yellow inner puffs, buttery-yellow outer puffs, and forest-green corner leaves. But this square takes recoloring extremely well because each round is fastened off separately. Try a cosmos version — deep plum center, dusty pink puffs, cream outer puffs, sage leaves. Or go full autumn with rust, burnt orange, mustard and olive. For a modern nursery, keep both puff rounds in the same soft color and let only the center and leaves contrast; the flower reads as texture rather than as a literal sunflower. Want a bigger square? Add a whole third petal layer between Rounds 4 and 5 by working a 5-hdc-puff plus ch1 into each existing ch-space, which gives you 16 more puffs and pushes the square closer to 5.5 inches — just be aware you will need slightly longer trebles or an extra chain at the corners to keep the edges flat. Going the other direction, drop to a 2.5mm hook with a light fingering yarn for a 3-inch square perfect for a doll blanket. Yarn-wise, a smooth cotton like Paintbox Simply DK or Scheepjes Catona shows the puff definition best, while 24/7 Cotton gives you a shinier, almost silky petal. Avoid anything fluffy or halo-heavy — mohair will swallow the puffs whole. For seasonal spins, swap the yellows for white and pale blue and the leaves for silver-grey and you have a snowflake-ish winter square; or work the petals in soft coral with a mint center for a beachy summer set", "raw_text": "The obvious version is classic sunflower: a chocolate-brown magic loop center, golden-yellow inner puffs, buttery-yellow outer puffs, and forest-green corner leaves. But this square takes recoloring extremely well because each round is fastened off separately. Try a cosmos version — deep plum center, dusty pink puffs, cream outer puffs, sage leaves. Or go full autumn with rust, burnt orange, mustard and olive. For a modern nursery, keep both puff rounds in the same soft color and let only the center and leaves contrast; the flower reads as texture rather than as a literal sunflower. Want a bigger square? Add a whole third petal layer between Rounds 4 and 5 by working a 5-hdc-puff plus ch1 into each existing ch-space, which gives you 16 more puffs and pushes the square closer to 5.5 inches — just be aware you will need slightly longer trebles or an extra chain at the corners to keep the edges flat. Going the other direction, drop to a 2.5mm hook with a light fingering yarn for a 3-inch square perfect for a doll blanket. Yarn-wise, a smooth cotton like Paintbox Simply DK or Scheepjes Catona shows the puff definition best, while 24/7 Cotton gives you a shinier, almost silky petal. Avoid anything fluffy or halo-heavy — mohair will swallow the puffs whole. For seasonal spins, swap the yellows for white and pale blue and the leaves for silver-grey and you have a snowflake-ish winter square; or work the petals in soft coral with a mint center for a beachy summer set", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null } ] }, { "order": 5, "card_type": "common_mistakes", "code": "common-mistakes", "title": "Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them", "raw_heading": "", "quantity": 1, "groups": [], "rows": [ { "order": 1, "row_type": "mistake", "code": "mistake-1", "label": "Puffs that come out loose, floppy or uneven in height", "value": "The height of a puff is set entirely by how far you draw up each loop before the final yarn-over. Pull every loop up to the same height — roughly the height of a half double crochet — and check the first two loops against each other before adding the third. Many crocheters unconsciously draw the first loop much taller than the rest. If your puffs still look slack, go down half a hook size for the puff rounds only, or give the finishing yarn-over a firm, deliberate tug rather than a gentle one", "raw_text": "The height of a puff is set entirely by how far you draw up each loop before the final yarn-over. Pull every loop up to the same height — roughly the height of a half double crochet — and check the first two loops against each other before adding the third. Many crocheters unconsciously draw the first loop much taller than the rest. If your puffs still look slack, go down half a hook size for the puff rounds only, or give the finishing yarn-over a firm, deliberate tug rather than a gentle one", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 2, "row_type": "mistake", "code": "mistake-2", "label": "Losing count of the 16 puffs in Round 2 and ending up with 15 or 17", "value": "Round 1 gives you 16 stitches total (the ch3 counts as the first dc plus 15 more dc), so Round 2 places exactly one 3-hdc-puff in each of those 16 stitches — that is your first puff plus the 15 repeats. Place a stitch marker in the top of your very first puff before you continue, and count in groups of four as you go. If you arrive at the join with one stitch left over, you almost certainly worked two puffs into the same stitch somewhere, most often right after the standing chain", "raw_text": "Round 1 gives you 16 stitches total (the ch3 counts as the first dc plus 15 more dc), so Round 2 places exactly one 3-hdc-puff in each of those 16 stitches — that is your first puff plus the 15 repeats. Place a stitch marker in the top of your very first puff before you continue, and count in groups of four as you go. If you arrive at the join with one stitch left over, you almost certainly worked two puffs into the same stitch somewhere, most often right after the standing chain", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 3, "row_type": "mistake", "code": "mistake-3", "label": "Working Round 4 into the puff tops instead of the chain spaces", "value": "Round 4 is worked entirely into the ch-spaces from the previous round, not into the puffs themselves. That is exactly why the round begins with a sl st to the next ch-sp before the standing chain — it moves your hook off the puff and into the gap. If you accidentally work into the puff tops, the petals stack directly on top of each other instead of offsetting, and the flower loses its layered look. Frog back and look for the little openings between puffs; they are more obvious if you gently stretch the round", "raw_text": "Round 4 is worked entirely into the ch-spaces from the previous round, not into the puffs themselves. That is exactly why the round begins with a sl st to the next ch-sp before the standing chain — it moves your hook off the puff and into the gap. If you accidentally work into the puff tops, the petals stack directly on top of each other instead of offsetting, and the flower loses its layered look. Frog back and look for the little openings between puffs; they are more obvious if you gently stretch the round", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 4, "row_type": "mistake", "code": "mistake-4", "label": "The standing chain that counts as an incomplete hdc gets forgotten or double-counted", "value": "Every puff round opens with a chain that stands in for the first incomplete hdc, meaning you only add 2 more incomplete hdc for a 3-hdc-puff and 3 more for a 4-hdc-puff. Adding a full three or four on top of the standing chain gives you an oversized first puff that sticks out awkwardly at the join. Say the count out loud on the first puff of each round: chain is one, then two, then three, yarn over, pull through everything", "raw_text": "Every puff round opens with a chain that stands in for the first incomplete hdc, meaning you only add 2 more incomplete hdc for a 3-hdc-puff and 3 more for a 4-hdc-puff. Adding a full three or four on top of the standing chain gives you an oversized first puff that sticks out awkwardly at the join. Say the count out loud on the first puff of each round: chain is one, then two, then three, yarn over, pull through everything", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 5, "row_type": "mistake", "code": "mistake-5", "label": "Corner leaves that pull in and make the square curl or cup", "value": "The final round packs 6 treble crochets into each corner area, split by 2 chains in the middle. If your trebles are worked too tightly, or if you skip the 2-chain split, the corners cannot spread and the whole square domes upward. Keep the treble yarn-overs relaxed and make sure that ch2 in the middle of each leaf is genuinely there — it is what lets the leaf fan open. A light steam block on the finished square will settle any remaining ripple", "raw_text": "The final round packs 6 treble crochets into each corner area, split by 2 chains in the middle. If your trebles are worked too tightly, or if you skip the 2-chain split, the corners cannot spread and the whole square domes upward. Keep the treble yarn-overs relaxed and make sure that ch2 in the middle of each leaf is genuinely there — it is what lets the leaf fan open. A light steam block on the finished square will settle any remaining ripple", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 6, "row_type": "mistake", "code": "mistake-6", "label": "Bulky, visible joins from fastening off after every round", "value": "This pattern fastens off and rejoins new yarn at each color change, which is great for clean color blocks but leaves 10 or more tails per square. Weave each tail in as you finish that round rather than saving them all for the end, and run them along the back of the puff bodies where the dense texture hides them completely. When joining new yarn 'in any st', deliberately stagger where you start each round so all your joins do not stack up in one visible vertical line", "raw_text": "This pattern fastens off and rejoins new yarn at each color change, which is great for clean color blocks but leaves 10 or more tails per square. Weave each tail in as you finish that round rather than saving them all for the end, and run them along the back of the puff bodies where the dense texture hides them completely. When joining new yarn 'in any st', deliberately stagger where you start each round so all your joins do not stack up in one visible vertical line", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null } ] }, { "order": 6, "card_type": "materials", "code": "materials", "title": "Materials", "raw_heading": "", "quantity": 1, "groups": [ { "order": 1, "group_code": "group-1", "group_name": "", "rows": [ { "order": 1, "row_type": "item", "code": "mat-1-1", "label": "", "value": "yarn of your choice- 4 colors", "raw_text": "yarn of your choice- 4 colors" }, { "order": 2, "row_type": "item", "code": "mat-1-2", "label": "", "value": "Crochet hook, we are using a 3.00mm hook", "raw_text": "Crochet hook, we are using a 3.00mm hook" }, { "order": 3, "row_type": "item", "code": "mat-1-3", "label": "", "value": "Darning Needle", "raw_text": "Darning Needle" }, { "order": 4, "row_type": "item", "code": "mat-1-4", "label": "", "value": "Scissors", "raw_text": "Scissors" } ] } ], "rows": [] }, { "order": 7, "card_type": "abbreviations", "code": "abbreviations", "title": "Abbreviations", "raw_heading": "", "quantity": 1, "groups": [], "rows": [ { "order": 1, "row_type": "abbrev", "code": "abbrev-ch-sp", "label": "ch-sp", "value": "chain space", "raw_text": "ch-sp = chain space", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": "ch-sp", "meaning": "chain space" }, { "order": 2, "row_type": "abbrev", "code": "abbrev-ch", "label": "ch", "value": "chain stitch", "raw_text": "ch = chain stitch", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": "ch", "meaning": "chain stitch" }, { "order": 3, "row_type": "abbrev", "code": "abbrev-dc", "label": "dc", "value": "double crochet", "raw_text": "dc = double crochet", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": "dc", "meaning": "double crochet" }, { "order": 4, "row_type": "abbrev", "code": "abbrev-hdc", "label": "hdc", "value": "half double crochet", "raw_text": "hdc = half double crochet", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": "hdc", "meaning": "half double crochet" }, { "order": 5, "row_type": "abbrev", "code": "abbrev-sc", "label": "sc", "value": "single crochet", "raw_text": "sc = single crochet", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": "sc", "meaning": "single crochet" }, { "order": 6, "row_type": "abbrev", "code": "abbrev-tr", "label": "tr", "value": "treble crochet", "raw_text": "tr = treble crochet", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": "tr", "meaning": "treble crochet" }, { "order": 7, "row_type": "abbrev", "code": "abbrev-sl-st", "label": "sl st", "value": "slip stitch", "raw_text": "sl st = slip stitch", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": "sl st", "meaning": "slip stitch" } ] }, { "order": 8, "card_type": "part", "code": "main-pattern", "title": "Main Pattern", "raw_heading": "", "quantity": 1, "groups": [], "rows": [ { "order": 1, "row_type": "subhead", "code": "main-pattern-round-1", "label": "", "value": "Flower Center", "raw_text": "Round 1- Flower Center Start with a magic loop, ch3 as a standing st(count as dc), 15dc in the loop, sl st to the top of the first ch3, fasten off.", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 2, "row_type": "round", "code": "main-pattern-round-1", "label": "Round 1", "value": "Start with a magic loop, ch3 as a standing st(count as dc), 15dc in the loop, sl st to the top of the first ch3, fasten off.", "raw_text": "Start with a magic loop, ch3 as a standing st(count as dc), 15dc in the loop, sl st to the top of the first ch3, fasten off.", "round_start": 1, "round_end": 1, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 3, "row_type": "subhead", "code": "main-pattern-round-2", "label": "", "value": "Sunflower Petals", "raw_text": "Round 2- Sunflower Petals Add new yarn in any st, ch as a standing st(count as an incomplete hdc), make another 2 incomplete hdc in the same st, yo, pull through all the loops on your hook to form 3-hdc-puff, ch. *3-hdc-puff+ch in the next st* rep 15 times, sl st to the top of the first puff.", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 4, "row_type": "round", "code": "main-pattern-round-2", "label": "Round 2", "value": "Add new yarn in any st, ch as a standing st(count as an incomplete hdc), make another 2 incomplete hdc in the same st, yo, pull through all the loops on your hook to form 3-hdc-puff, ch. *3-hdc-puff+ch in the next st* rep 15 times, sl st to the top of the first puff.", "raw_text": "Add new yarn in any st, ch as a standing st(count as an incomplete hdc), make another 2 incomplete hdc in the same st, yo, pull through all the loops on your hook to form 3-hdc-puff, ch. *3-hdc-puff+ch in the next st* rep 15 times, sl st to the top of the first puff.", "round_start": 2, "round_end": 2, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 5, "row_type": "subhead", "code": "main-pattern-round-3", "label": "", "value": "Similar to Round", "raw_text": "Round 3 Similar to Round 2. sl st to the next ch-sp. ch as a standing st(count as an incomplete hdc), make another 3 incomplete hdc in the same ch-sp, yo, pull through all loops on your hook to form a 4-hdc-puff, ch. 4-hdc-puff+ch in the remaining ch-sp, sl st to the top of the first puff, fasten off.", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 6, "row_type": "round", "code": "main-pattern-round-3", "label": "Round 3", "value": "2. sl st to the next ch-sp. ch as a standing st(count as an incomplete hdc), make another 3 incomplete hdc in the same ch-sp, yo, pull through all loops on your hook to form a 4-hdc-puff, ch. 4-hdc-puff+ch in the remaining ch-sp, sl st to the top of the first puff, fasten off.", "raw_text": "2. sl st to the next ch-sp. ch as a standing st(count as an incomplete hdc), make another 3 incomplete hdc in the same ch-sp, yo, pull through all loops on your hook to form a 4-hdc-puff, ch. 4-hdc-puff+ch in the remaining ch-sp, sl st to the top of the first puff, fasten off.", "round_start": 3, "round_end": 3, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 7, "row_type": "subhead", "code": "main-pattern-round-4", "label": "", "value": "Leaves in the Corner", "raw_text": "Round 4- Leaves in the Corner Add new yarn in any ch-sp, ch4 as a standing st(count as tr), 2tr+ch2+3tr+ch6 in this ch-sp. *skip following 3 ch-sp, 3tr+ch2+3tr+ch6 in next ch-sp* rep 3 times, sl st to the top of the first ch4, fasten off.", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 8, "row_type": "round", "code": "main-pattern-round-4", "label": "Round 4", "value": "Add new yarn in any ch-sp, ch4 as a standing st(count as tr), 2tr+ch2+3tr+ch6 in this ch-sp. *skip following 3 ch-sp, 3tr+ch2+3tr+ch6 in next ch-sp* rep 3 times, sl st to the top of the first ch4, fasten off.", "raw_text": "Add new yarn in any ch-sp, ch4 as a standing st(count as tr), 2tr+ch2+3tr+ch6 in this ch-sp. *skip following 3 ch-sp, 3tr+ch2+3tr+ch6 in next ch-sp* rep 3 times, sl st to the top of the first ch4, fasten off.", "round_start": 4, "round_end": 4, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 9, "row_type": "round", "code": "main-pattern-round-5", "label": "Round 5", "value": "Turn into Square Add new yarn into any corner sp, ch3 as a standing st(count as dc). dc in the same corner sp, 3dc,*3tr in the next ch-sp from Round 3 to encase the ch-6 sp from the previous round* rep 3 times, 3dc, 2dc+ch2 in the next corner sp.", "raw_text": "Round 5- Turn into Square Add new yarn into any corner sp, ch3 as a standing st(count as dc). dc in the same corner sp, 3dc,*3tr in the next ch-sp from Round 3 to encase the ch-6 sp from the previous round* rep 3 times, 3dc, 2dc+ch2 in the next corner sp.", "round_start": 5, "round_end": 5, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 10, "row_type": "instruction", "code": "main-pattern-info-1", "label": "Steps", "value": "[2dc in the current corner sp, 3dc, *3tr in the next ch-sp from Round 3 to encase the ch-6 sp from the previous round* rep 3 times, 3dc, 2dc+ch2 in the next corner sp]rep 3 times, sl st to the top of the first ch3, fasten off.", "raw_text": "[2dc in the current corner sp, 3dc, *3tr in the next ch-sp from Round 3 to encase the ch-6 sp from the previous round* rep 3 times, 3dc, 2dc+ch2 in the next corner sp]rep 3 times, sl st to the top of the first ch3, fasten off.", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null } ] }, { "order": 9, "card_type": "important_notes", "code": "important-notes", "title": "Important Notes", "raw_heading": "", "quantity": 1, "groups": [], "rows": [ { "order": 1, "row_type": "info", "code": "note-1", "label": "Note", "value": "💡 A 3.00mm hook with DK-weight cotton gives the stated 3.94-inch square. If your square comes out noticeably larger, it is almost always puff tension rather than the hook — puffs are much more sensitive to loose loop-drawing than plain stitches, so make a single test square before committing to a whole blanket's worth of yarn", "raw_text": "💡 A 3.00mm hook with DK-weight cotton gives the stated 3.94-inch square. If your square comes out noticeably larger, it is almost always puff tension rather than the hook — puffs are much more sensitive to loose loop-drawing than plain stitches, so make a single test square before committing to a whole blanket's worth of yarn", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 2, "row_type": "info", "code": "note-2", "label": "Note", "value": "💡 Mark the top of the first puff in every round with a locking stitch marker the moment you make it. The join at the end of each round is a sl st into that exact loop, and once you are 12 puffs in, all the puff tops start to look identical", "raw_text": "💡 Mark the top of the first puff in every round with a locking stitch marker the moment you make it. The join at the end of each round is a sl st into that exact loop, and once you are 12 puffs in, all the puff tops start to look identical", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 3, "row_type": "info", "code": "note-3", "label": "Note", "value": "💡 Because you fasten off at the end of most rounds, wind small bobbins or cut generous 1.5-metre lengths for each color instead of working from four full balls. It keeps your lap tidy and stops the yarn tangling every time you rotate the square", "raw_text": "💡 Because you fasten off at the end of most rounds, wind small bobbins or cut generous 1.5-metre lengths for each color instead of working from four full balls. It keeps your lap tidy and stops the yarn tangling every time you rotate the square", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 4, "row_type": "info", "code": "note-4", "label": "Note", "value": "💡 The chain spaces are structural, not decorative. Keep them at a consistent, slightly loose tension — a strangled ch1 between puffs will pull the petals together and flatten the flower. If you tend to chain tightly, chain around the shaft of the hook rather than the tip", "raw_text": "💡 The chain spaces are structural, not decorative. Keep them at a consistent, slightly loose tension — a strangled ch1 between puffs will pull the petals together and flatten the flower. If you tend to chain tightly, chain around the shaft of the hook rather than the tip", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 5, "row_type": "info", "code": "note-5", "label": "Note", "value": "💡 Block every square before joining. Pin each one to exactly 3.94 by 3.94 inches, spray with water, and let it dry fully. Puff-heavy squares vary more in size than flat granny squares do, and blocking is the difference between a blanket that lies flat and one that ripples at the seams", "raw_text": "💡 Block every square before joining. Pin each one to exactly 3.94 by 3.94 inches, spray with water, and let it dry fully. Puff-heavy squares vary more in size than flat granny squares do, and blocking is the difference between a blanket that lies flat and one that ripples at the seams", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 6, "row_type": "info", "code": "note-6", "label": "Note", "value": "💡 If you are making many squares, work all the Round 1 centers first, then all the Round 2 puffs, and so on. Batching by round keeps your puff tension consistent across the whole set and means you only handle each color once", "raw_text": "💡 If you are making many squares, work all the Round 1 centers first, then all the Round 2 puffs, and so on. Batching by round keeps your puff tension consistent across the whole set and means you only handle each color once", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": null, "answer": null, "abbr": null, "meaning": null } ] }, { "order": 10, "card_type": "faq", "code": "faq", "title": "FAQ", "raw_heading": "", "quantity": 1, "groups": [], "rows": [ { "order": 1, "row_type": "faq", "code": "faq-1", "label": "What is the difference between a 3-hdc-puff and a 4-hdc-puff, and why does the pattern use both?", "value": "A 3-hdc-puff is made from three incomplete half double crochets gathered together, while a 4-hdc-puff uses four, making it noticeably taller and fuller. The pattern uses the smaller puff for the inner petal round and the larger one for the outer round so the petals grow in size toward the edge, just like a real sunflower. It is a small change that does most of the visual work in this square", "raw_text": "A 3-hdc-puff is made from three incomplete half double crochets gathered together, while a 4-hdc-puff uses four, making it noticeably taller and fuller. The pattern uses the smaller puff for the inner petal round and the larger one for the outer round so the petals grow in size toward the edge, just like a real sunflower. It is a small change that does most of the visual work in this square", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": "What is the difference between a 3-hdc-puff and a 4-hdc-puff, and why does the pattern use both?", "answer": "A 3-hdc-puff is made from three incomplete half double crochets gathered together, while a 4-hdc-puff uses four, making it noticeably taller and fuller. The pattern uses the smaller puff for the inner petal round and the larger one for the outer round so the petals grow in size toward the edge, just like a real sunflower. It is a small change that does most of the visual work in this square", "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 2, "row_type": "faq", "code": "faq-2", "label": "Can I make this square without a magic loop?", "value": "Yes. Chain 4 and slip stitch into the first chain to form a ring, then work your ch3 and 15 dc into that ring instead. The center hole will be slightly larger and cannot be cinched closed, but with a dark center color it is barely noticeable once the puff rounds go on top", "raw_text": "Yes. Chain 4 and slip stitch into the first chain to form a ring, then work your ch3 and 15 dc into that ring instead. The center hole will be slightly larger and cannot be cinched closed, but with a dark center color it is barely noticeable once the puff rounds go on top", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": "Can I make this square without a magic loop?", "answer": "Yes. Chain 4 and slip stitch into the first chain to form a ring, then work your ch3 and 15 dc into that ring instead. The center hole will be slightly larger and cannot be cinched closed, but with a dark center color it is barely noticeable once the puff rounds go on top", "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 3, "row_type": "faq", "code": "faq-3", "label": "How many squares do I need for a blanket?", "value": "3.94 inches each, you will need roughly 42 squares for a generous baby blanket around 24 by 32 inches before joining, or about 120 for a throw around 40 by 48 inches. Add a little extra to your count if you plan to work a border, since joining seams eat a small amount of width", "raw_text": "3.94 inches each, you will need roughly 42 squares for a generous baby blanket around 24 by 32 inches before joining, or about 120 for a throw around 40 by 48 inches. Add a little extra to your count if you plan to work a border, since joining seams eat a small amount of width", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": "How many squares do I need for a blanket?", "answer": "3.94 inches each, you will need roughly 42 squares for a generous baby blanket around 24 by 32 inches before joining, or about 120 for a throw around 40 by 48 inches. Add a little extra to your count if you plan to work a border, since joining seams eat a small amount of width", "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 4, "row_type": "faq", "code": "faq-4", "label": "Why does my square have a hole or gap at each join?", "value": "Slip stitching into the top of the first puff can leave a visible gap because the puff top sits lower than a normal stitch. Try slip stitching a touch more firmly, and when you rejoin yarn for the next round, start in a different position so the joins do not line up. Weaving that round's tail across the gap on the wrong side also closes it nicely", "raw_text": "Slip stitching into the top of the first puff can leave a visible gap because the puff top sits lower than a normal stitch. Try slip stitching a touch more firmly, and when you rejoin yarn for the next round, start in a different position so the joins do not line up. Weaving that round's tail across the gap on the wrong side also closes it nicely", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": "Why does my square have a hole or gap at each join?", "answer": "Slip stitching into the top of the first puff can leave a visible gap because the puff top sits lower than a normal stitch. Try slip stitching a touch more firmly, and when you rejoin yarn for the next round, start in a different position so the joins do not line up. Weaving that round's tail across the gap on the wrong side also closes it nicely", "abbr": null, "meaning": null }, { "order": 5, "row_type": "faq", "code": "faq-5", "label": "What yarn weight works best for this pattern?", "value": "DK-weight cotton with a 3.00mm hook is the sweet spot — it has enough body to hold the puff shape without going stiff, and the smooth finish shows off the stitch definition. Worsted weight works too with a 4.00mm hook and gives you a square closer to 5 inches, but avoid fuzzy or fluffy yarns since the halo hides the puff texture entirely", "raw_text": "DK-weight cotton with a 3.00mm hook is the sweet spot — it has enough body to hold the puff shape without going stiff, and the smooth finish shows off the stitch definition. Worsted weight works too with a 4.00mm hook and gives you a square closer to 5 inches, but avoid fuzzy or fluffy yarns since the halo hides the puff texture entirely", "round_start": null, "round_end": null, "is_range": false, "stitch_count": null, "question": "What yarn weight works best for this pattern?", "answer": "DK-weight cotton with a 3.00mm hook is the sweet spot — it has enough body to hold the puff shape without going stiff, and the smooth finish shows off the stitch definition. Worsted weight works too with a 4.00mm hook and gives you a square closer to 5 inches, but avoid fuzzy or fluffy yarns since the halo hides the puff texture entirely", "abbr": null, "meaning": null } ] } ], "conflicts": [], "validation_warnings": [], "images": [ "data/images/puff-stitch-sunflower-granny-square-hero.webp", "data/images/puff-stitch-sunflower-granny-square-step-2.webp", "data/images/puff-stitch-sunflower-granny-square-step-3.webp", "data/images/puff-stitch-sunflower-granny-square-step-4.webp" ], "source_url": null, "thumbnail_images": [ { "url": "data/images/puff-stitch-sunflower-granny-square-hero.webp", "alt": "Puff Stitch Sunflower Granny Square — Free Crochet Pattern — photo 1", "is_featured": true } ], "gallery_images": [ { "url": "data/images/puff-stitch-sunflower-granny-square-hero.webp", "alt": "Puff Stitch Sunflower Granny Square — Free Crochet Pattern — photo 1", "is_featured": true }, { "url": "data/images/puff-stitch-sunflower-granny-square-step-2.webp", "alt": "Puff Stitch Sunflower Granny Square — Free Crochet Pattern — photo 2", "is_featured": false }, { "url": "data/images/puff-stitch-sunflower-granny-square-step-3.webp", "alt": "Puff Stitch Sunflower Granny Square — Free Crochet Pattern — photo 3", "is_featured": false }, { "url": "data/images/puff-stitch-sunflower-granny-square-step-4.webp", "alt": "Puff Stitch Sunflower Granny Square — Free Crochet Pattern — photo 4", "is_featured": false } ], "_sanitized_holiday_count": 0 }